What makes Lucknow ka khan-paan rock?

The taste of Lucknow is world class and it’s not just the palate of locals that report it. Top chefs, food travellers and experts have recognised it too. Recently, the online travel guide Taste Atlas, too listed it in the list of 100 Best Food Cities of the World. The five Indian cities that figured in the elite list were Mumbai (35), Hyderabad (39) New Delhi (56), Chennai (65) and Lucknow (92).
We find out what makes Awadhi and local cuisine a class apart.
The iconic food joints in the Akbari Gate locality, Chowk, Aminabad, Lalbagh and Press Club area have become bigger and have branched out to malls, various parts of the city and abroad as well.
The original Tunday Kebabi, established in 1905, still serves in traditional style. “My father Mohd Usman established the Aminabad joint and then we opened at Kapoorthala, Lulu Mall, at Omax Chowk and Al-Karama (Dubai). We have secretly guarded recipes which make our delicacies special and loved, so we don’t offer franchise and operate ourselves with quality, hygiene and standard operating procedure in place,” says its owner Mohd Faizan.
Idrees Biryani run by brothers Abu Bakar and Abu Hamza has not branched out at all and believes in preparing fresh biryani in small batches which is usually sold out by 7-8 pm. Mubeen’s hotel operation from wee hours to way past midnight is testimony to foodies’ love for Awadhi delights. Similar is the situation at Raheem’s hotel for kulcha-nihari and variety of pasandas.
“It’s love for our chicken masala, biryani and kebabs that we have branched out in various parts from street food to fine-dining,” says Arshi Jamal of Dastarkhwan food chain.
“Besides the main Awadhi delicacies what’s very special about this city is street food. As much as I relish kebabs and biryani, I love savouring makkhan malai, roasted shakarkandi, boiled singhara and chaat-papdi options which makes street food very special,” says celebrity chef Goila.
The turnout for chai, samosa and bun-makkan at Sharmaji Ki Chaai, long queues at Bajpai Kachori, mattha at Chanakya sweets in the morning, piping-hot milk, lassi and rabri at Koneshwar Temple crossing at Chowk and the huge rush at Chatori Gali near 1090 Crossing is a testimony of Lucknow’s street-food culture.
From yesteryear’s Prakash Kulfi to today’s Chanakya’s kulfi that is sold by weight, it’s a popular delight that locals and visitors love to try.
“The city boasts of many sweets from mango delicacies, seasonal sweets but one thing that is cut about rest is malai gilouri and its kesaria counter. A delicate sweet, which is highly perishable. It’s something every Lucknowite is proud of,” says Raghuvansh Behari Gupta of 219-year-old Ram Asrey Sweets.
Seasonal delicacies like gajar-ka-halwa, sohan halwa, kali-gajar-ka-halwa, makkhan malai and other sweet delights make the food platter wider.
City chaat culture has a long history and it has become bigger and better with time. Chef Hardayal Maurya ‘Chotu’, popular as “chat king” on social media, says, “I have been making chaat for over 50 years and it was in 1992 that by mistake I created basket chaat at Royal Cafe and today similar delicacies are sold everywhere. I must have served people from 183 countries so far and I am sure they remember the taste. We keep innovating and educating people in this art.”
Today tikki, matar and now several varieties of pani-batasha and other variants are available at all restaurants and nook and corner of the city.
Chef Sanjeev Kapoor
Lucknow ka khana bahut itmenaan ka hai and that’s embedded in the culture of slow cooking and refinement. There is a lot of impact of culture in its food. I see a lot of good happening in the food world, which, in the larger picture, is going towards our roots and tradition.
Chef Ranveer Brar
I am very happy that both at iconic food joints and traditional families people take pride in their food and cooking process. Purane sheher ke logon ki mehnat hai and woh unki identity that they take pride in taking the culture and food legacy forward. We need to celebrate our food and keep the rooted and traditional cooking methods alive.
Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi
My father Padma Shri Imtiaz Qureshi is instrumental in taking the finnesse of kebabs and dumpukth (slow cooking) dishes to top five stars hotels which in turn became world famous. He inherited it from his gurus and the family, who served in Nawabi kitchens, where refinement and its impact on taste and body used to be the subject of research. Old families are still carrying forward the tradition in their homes. Lucknow’s food has a blend of nazakat, mohabbat aur itmenaan.
Chef Kunal Kapur
Lucknow’s culinary charm lies in its rich Mughlai and Awadhi influences over the years. From the iconic Kebabs to the aromatic Lakhnavi Biryani, the city’s cuisine is a celebration of the art of spices and slow-cooked perfection. Lucknow’s culinary heritage is defined by its street food, featuring kebabs, curries, breads, chaats and kulfis. It’s not just a meal; it’s a journey through history and tradition, making Lucknow food an integral part of the city’s cultural identity.